
Issyk-Kul · Kyrgyzstan
Karakol is the main town at the eastern end of Issyk-Kul, at about 1,750 m, founded in 1869 as a Russian garrison. Its main sights are the wooden Holy Trinity Cathedral and the Dungan mosque, designed by a Chinese architect and finished in 1910. Local Dungan families serve ashlan-fu and home-cooked dinners. The town is the base for treks to Ala-Kul, Altyn-Arashan and Jeti-Oguz in summer and for skiing in winter. Bishkek is about 400 km away, six to seven hours by road.
Karakol stands at about 1,750 m where the mountains close in at the eastern end of Issyk-Kul. It was founded in 1869 as a Russian garrison, and the plan has not changed much since: a grid of wide streets, poplars, and low houses with carved window frames. Travellers use it as a base. Almost everything people come to the east of the lake for is within a morning's drive, and the town is where the guides, drivers, rental gear and supplies are.
The Dungan community, Muslim Chinese who settled here in the 19th century, is why the food differs from the rest of the country. Ashlan-fu, cold noodles in a sour broth, is the town dish, and Dungan families in and around Karakol cook dinners for visitors.
The trekking season in the surrounding valleys runs from late June to September, when the high passes are clear of snow. July and August are the busiest weeks and the safest bet for the Ala-Kul pass. In winter people come to ski in the hills above town, and the lower valleys stay reachable, though snow can shut the mountain tracks for days at a time.
Bishkek is 398 km away, about six and a half hours by the paved north-shore road through Balykchy and Cholpon-Ata. Cholpon-Ata itself is 141 km, roughly two and a half hours. The road runs through a string of villages with speed limits and radar, and sections east of Cholpon-Ata have been under reconstruction, so allow more time than the map suggests.
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Ready-made trips

5 days
Petroglyphs at Cholpon-Ata, Karakol and its Dungan kitchen, a night by the Altyn-Arashan hot springs, the Barskoon waterfalls, Skazka canyon and an eagle hunter on the south shore.
from $660 / person

10 days
Burana tower, two nights in yurts on Song-Kul, Naryn and the Silk Road caravanserai of Tash-Rabat, felt makers in Kochkor, an eagle hunter and Skazka canyon on Issyk-Kul, and Karakol.
from $1,610 / person

14 days
Ala-Archa, Burana and Chon-Kemin, the full Issyk-Kul circuit with Altyn-Arashan, two nights at Song-Kul, Naryn and Tash-Rabat: the whole north in two weeks.
from $2,200 / person
Kyrgyzstan

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