Besh-Tash, "five stones" in Kyrgyz, is a nature park declared in 1996 on the northern side of the Talas Ala-Too range. Its gate stands about 13 km south of Talas at roughly 1,540 m, and from there a single valley runs up into the mountains. It is an undeveloped park: a road, a river, pastures and a couple of lakes, with no village, no lodge and no shop beyond the gate.
The valley
The track follows the Besh-Tash river upstream through meadows grazed in summer, past the yurts and herds of families who spend the season here, to a small lake partway up. A path continues from there to the main lake, turquoise and set among bare slopes at about 3,000 m. Talas to the upper lake is 47 km and roughly two hours; the gravel stays reasonable almost to the water. The park protects mountain wildlife including snow leopard and Turkestan lynx, though seeing either is a matter of luck rather than planning.
What people do
- Day walks from the road, with as much or as little climbing as you want.
- Camping by the river, which is permitted and is how most people spend a night here.
- Longer hikes up the side valleys and towards the ridge, usually with a guide arranged in Talas.
- Photography of the upper lake, which is what brings most day visitors up the full 47 km.
When to go
Summer and early autumn are the dependable window. The lower valley greens up early and is pleasant well before the top of the road is, but the lake sits at about 3,000 m and holds snow long after the meadows have opened. Published advice on when the upper valley clears varies, so ask in Talas before committing to the drive rather than turning around at a snowdrift.
Getting there
Most people take a taxi from Talas, which is the usual arrangement and covers the 47 km to the lake in about two hours. An ordinary car with reasonable ground clearance manages the gravel in dry weather; after rain the surface is slower. From Manas Ordo the same trip is 62 km and about two and a half hours, going back through Talas.
Practical notes
An entrance fee is collected at the gate and paid in cash. There is no mobile signal, no fuel, no accommodation and nothing to buy inside the park, so bring food, water and warm clothing from Talas even for a day trip; the lake is a great deal colder than the town. Leave the pastures as you found them, camp away from the herders' yurts, and carry your rubbish back out with you.