Silk Alps
Turquoise Besh-Tash lake among bare mountain slopes

Talas · Kyrgyzstan

Besh-Tash National Park

Besh-Tash is a nature park created in 1996 in the Talas Ala-Too range, with its gate about 13 km south of Talas. A track follows the Besh-Tash river up a valley of meadows, yurts and herds to a small lake, and a path continues to the main turquoise lake at about 3,000 m. Visitors come for day walks, riverside camping and longer hikes, and pay an entrance fee at the gate. The park protects mountain wildlife including snow leopard and Turkestan lynx. Most people arrive by taxi from Talas.

Region
Talas
Altitude
1,540 m
Roads
Any car

Besh-Tash, "five stones" in Kyrgyz, is a nature park declared in 1996 on the northern side of the Talas Ala-Too range. Its gate stands about 13 km south of Talas at roughly 1,540 m, and from there a single valley runs up into the mountains. It is an undeveloped park: a road, a river, pastures and a couple of lakes, with no village, no lodge and no shop beyond the gate.

The valley The track follows the Besh-Tash river upstream through meadows grazed in summer, past the yurts and herds of families who spend the season here, to a small lake partway up. A path continues from there to the main lake, turquoise and set among bare slopes at about 3,000 m. Talas to the upper lake is 47 km and roughly two hours; the gravel stays reasonable almost to the water. The park protects mountain wildlife including snow leopard and Turkestan lynx, though seeing either is a matter of luck rather than planning.

What people do - Day walks from the road, with as much or as little climbing as you want. - Camping by the river, which is permitted and is how most people spend a night here. - Longer hikes up the side valleys and towards the ridge, usually with a guide arranged in Talas. - Photography of the upper lake, which is what brings most day visitors up the full 47 km.

When to go Summer and early autumn are the dependable window. The lower valley greens up early and is pleasant well before the top of the road is, but the lake sits at about 3,000 m and holds snow long after the meadows have opened. Published advice on when the upper valley clears varies, so ask in Talas before committing to the drive rather than turning around at a snowdrift.

Getting there Most people take a taxi from Talas, which is the usual arrangement and covers the 47 km to the lake in about two hours. An ordinary car with reasonable ground clearance manages the gravel in dry weather; after rain the surface is slower. From Manas Ordo the same trip is 62 km and about two and a half hours, going back through Talas.

Practical notes An entrance fee is collected at the gate and paid in cash. There is no mobile signal, no fuel, no accommodation and nothing to buy inside the park, so bring food, water and warm clothing from Talas even for a day trip; the lake is a great deal colder than the town. Leave the pastures as you found them, camp away from the herders' yurts, and carry your rubbish back out with you.

Good to know

Questions travellers ask

Can you drive to the Besh-Tash lake or do you have to walk?
You can drive most of the way. The gravel road runs 47 km from Talas up the valley and stays in reasonable shape almost to the upper lake at about 3,000 m, taking roughly two hours. A short walk links the road end with the water, and a path also connects the smaller lower lake with the main one for anyone who wants to hike a section.
Do you need a 4x4 for Besh-Tash?
Not normally. The valley road is gravel rather than off-road track, and ordinary cars with decent ground clearance do the trip in dry conditions, which is why most visitors simply take a taxi from Talas. After heavy rain the surface deteriorates and the drive gets slower, so a higher vehicle is more comfortable rather than strictly necessary.
When is the park open?
There is no fixed gate season, but the useful window is summer into early autumn. The lower valley is accessible well before the top is, while the lake at about 3,000 m holds snow much later and the road above the pastures can stay blocked. Sources disagree on the opening date, so ask in Talas on the day before you drive up.
Is there anywhere to stay inside Besh-Tash?
No guesthouses, lodges or yurt camps operate for travellers inside the park. Camping by the river is permitted and is how people spend a night there, so bring a tent, a warm bag and all your food. Everyone else stays in the family guesthouses and homestays in Talas, 13 km down the road from the park gate.
Is there phone signal in the valley?
No. There is no mobile coverage inside the park, and no shop, fuel or other infrastructure past the gate. Tell someone in Talas where you are going and when you expect to be back, carry more water and warm clothing than a two-hour drive suggests, and do not count on calling a taxi from the top of the valley.

Kyrgyzstan

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Photos: Photo: Ulan A / CC BY-SA 4.0 · Photo: Almutamid / Public domain · Photo: tjabeljan / CC BY 2.0 · Photo: Bernard Gagnon / CC0 · Photo: Nurdjen / Public domain