Arslanbob

Arslanbob is a large, mostly Uzbek village at about 1,600 m on the southern slopes of the Fergana Range, spread across a slope beneath the peaks and surrounded by wild walnut and fruit forest. The forest is worked rather than fenced off: families hold plots under the trees, animals graze between them, and in autumn the village moves uphill to bring in the nuts. It is one of the easiest mountain places in Kyrgyzstan to reach, and appears on almost every southern itinerary.

What there is to do - The two waterfalls. The smaller one is about 40 minutes on foot from the centre; the larger one takes roughly an hour and a half and climbs more steeply. - Walking and riding in the walnut forest, on tracks that run up through the trees to the pastures above the village. - Multi-day horse treks, most commonly a three-day route to Holy Lake with two nights out. - A walnut-oil press, which some hosts will take you to, with bread and fresh oil to taste. - Mountain bikes, horses and local guides, all hired in the village rather than booked from outside.

When to go May to October is the main season. Spring is green and the fruit trees flower; high summer is warm at village level and far more bearable than the Fergana valley below; September and October are the walnut harvest, when the forest is at its busiest and families camp among the trees. Winter is quiet and snowy, and skis and snowshoes can be hired locally for the slopes above the village.

Getting there From Jalal-Abad it is 80 km and about an hour and three quarters via Bazar-Korgon, paved, with a steep climb at the end; the road is open all year. From Osh it is 185 km and about four hours by the same route. Direct marshrutkas run from Osh, and there are more frequent connections if you change in Jalal-Abad or Bazar-Korgon. Sary-Chelek looks close on a map but there is no road over the mountains: the drive is 230 km and about five and a half hours back down the valley through Bazar-Korgon and Tash-Kumyr.

Where travellers sleep Family guesthouses in the village, arranged through the community tourism network, plus a few small lodges outside it that open for the summer. Rooms are simple and meals are home-cooked. Booking is by phone or through the local office rather than online.

Practical notes A small fee is collected on the path to the larger waterfall during the season. The village is spread over a wide slope, so the bazaar, the centre and your guesthouse may be a long walk apart; a taxi within the village is normal. The waterfall paths are rocky and get slippery after rain.