Silk Alps
The Suusamyr valley in the Kyrgyz mountains

Chuy · Kyrgyzstan

Suusamyr Valley

Suusamyr is a high valley in the south of Chuy Region, reached from Bishkek through the Too-Ashuu pass tunnel on the Bishkek–Osh highway, about 150 km and three hours by road. The village of the same name lies at about 2,100 m. In summer herding families set up yurts on the wide pastures, and travellers stop for short walks, horse rides and kymyz, fermented mare's milk. In winter the surrounding ranges are used for backcountry skiing. The road is paved, and summer nights are cool.

Region
Chuy
Altitude
2,100 m
Roads
Any car

What Suusamyr is

Suusamyr is a high valley in the south of Chuy region: a wide floor of grass at about 2,100 m, closed in by ranges on every side. The Bishkek–Osh highway crosses it, which makes it the first real mountain country most travellers see after leaving the capital. In summer it is jailoo — summer pasture — with herds spread across the plain and yurts pitched within sight of the road. In winter it is snow and wind, and the people who come are skiers.

What there is to do

  • Stop at a roadside yurt for kymyz, fermented mare's milk, which the valley is known for.
  • Ride out onto the pastures, or walk up one of the side valleys towards the ridges.
  • Visit the small museum in the valley to Kaba uulu Kojomkul, a Kyrgyz strongman born here and still remembered for his feats.
  • Ski in winter: the surrounding slopes are used for backcountry and snowcat skiing, with reliable snow for months.

When to go

June to September is the green season, when the herders are up on the pasture and the yurts are out. December to March is the ski season. The highway is open all year, but snow lies in the valley from November to April and nights are cool even in midsummer at this altitude.

Getting there

From Bishkek it is about 155 km and three hours on the Bishkek–Osh highway, over Too-Ashuu. The old pass tops out at 3,586 m; traffic now uses a tunnel of roughly 2.7 to 3 km at around 3,100 m, which is narrow and poorly lit. The road stays open through winter, but there is snow from November to April, chains are sometimes needed and there is avalanche risk on that stretch. Suusamyr village lies about 15 km west of the highway. Onward, Kyzyl-Oi is 41 km down the Kökömeren canyon, Toktogul about 155 km and three hours over Ala-Bel (3,175–3,184 m), and Talas about 172 km and three and a half hours over Otmok (3,330 m).

Where travellers sleep

There are family guesthouses in the villages, seasonal yurt camps out on the pastures and a small mountain lodge used mainly by skiers. Most of it is simple. Carry cash, and expect thin mobile coverage once you leave the highway.

Good to know

Questions travellers ask

How far is Suusamyr from Bishkek?
About 155 km and three hours on the Bishkek–Osh highway. The road climbs to Too-Ashuu, where traffic passes through a tunnel of roughly 2.7 to 3 km at around 3,100 m; the old pass above it reaches 3,586 m. Suusamyr village is a further 15 km or so west of the highway across the valley floor.
Is the road to Suusamyr open in winter?
Yes, the Bishkek–Osh highway is kept open all year, but conditions change. Snow lies from November to April, chains are sometimes needed, and there is avalanche risk on the Too-Ashuu stretch. The tunnel is narrow and poorly lit. In winter, check conditions before setting out and do not plan a tight schedule around it.
What is there to do in the Suusamyr valley?
In summer, horse riding and walking on the open pasture, stopping at roadside yurts for kymyz, and a small museum to the strongman Kaba uulu Kojomkul who was born here. In winter the valley is used for backcountry and snowcat skiing on the surrounding slopes, which hold snow for months.
Can you stay overnight in Suusamyr?
Yes. There are family guesthouses in the villages, seasonal yurt camps out on the pastures in summer, and a small mountain lodge used mostly by skiers in winter. Standards are simple and there is no bank in the valley, so bring cash. Mobile coverage thins out quickly once you leave the highway.
Can Suusamyr be combined with Kyzyl-Oi or Song-Kul?
Kyzyl-Oi is an easy next stop: about 41 km and an hour and a quarter down the Kökömeren canyon on good gravel. From there the road carries on through Chaek towards Kochkor and Song-Kul, and the Kochkor to Kyzyl-Oi leg is roughly 160 km and four hours over the Kyzart pass at 2,664 m.

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Photos: Photo: Firespeaker / CC BY-SA 3.0 · Photo: upyernoz / CC BY 2.0 · Photo: Peter Schepens https://www.flickr.com/photos/kpi/ / CC BY 2.0 · Photo: Mamatkazy / CC0 · Photo: Hsharapov / CC BY-SA 3.0